Heat Pump Repair in Tacoma, WA

A heat pump doesn't create heat by burning anything. It moves heat from outdoor air into your home using a refrigerant circuit, reversing the cycle it would run for cooling. That design is efficient in the temperature range the Puget Sound region spends most of its winter in, and it also explains most of the calls we get — lower supply temperatures, longer run times, and a defrost cycle that looks alarming the first time you watch it.

Heat pump faults we diagnose

Weak heat or long run times that never satisfy

Low refrigerant charge, a dirty outdoor coil, a restricted indoor filter or a failing compressor all reduce capacity. The tell is comparison: if this winter feels worse than last winter at the same settings, something has changed.

Defrost and icing problems

In cool, wet Pacific Northwest air, frost on the outdoor coil is expected and the defrost cycle is supposed to clear it. When the defrost board, sensor or reversing valve fails, ice accumulates until airflow across the coil stops and heating output collapses.

Reversing valve faults

The reversing valve decides whether your system heats or cools. A valve that sticks or a solenoid that fails can leave a heat pump running in cooling mode during a call for heat — which is one genuine cause of cold air from the vents.

Auxiliary heat running constantly

Electric backup heat should assist, not carry the load. When it runs continuously, either the heat pump isn't performing or the thermostat's staging and configuration are wrong. Both show up on the power bill.

Outdoor unit not running

Contactors, capacitors, fan motors and the outdoor disconnect breaker are the usual suspects when the unit outside is silent while the indoor blower runs.

Control and thermostat mismatches

Heat pumps need thermostats configured for heat pump operation, including reversing-valve orientation and auxiliary staging. A generic thermostat installed with furnace settings produces strange, intermittent behavior — see thermostat repair.

Signs repair may be needed

• Heat that no longer keeps up on cold mornings
• The outdoor unit encased in ice, or iced between cycles
• Auxiliary or emergency heat running almost constantly
• Cold air from vents during a call for heat
• The outdoor fan running while the compressor stays silent
• Loud humming, buzzing or rattling from the outdoor unit
• A clear jump in electricity use with no change in habits

Homeowner checks that help

Keep the outdoor unit clear — leaves, blackberry vines and yard debris accumulate fast here, and a blocked coil chokes capacity. Replace the indoor filter on schedule. Check both the indoor and outdoor breakers. Leave the thermostat at a steady setting rather than deep setbacks, since large recovery swings pull in auxiliary heat. And don't attempt refrigerant work or open the outdoor cabinet; those circuits stay energized even when the unit is idle.

Related pages

Homes with hybrid systems pair a heat pump with a gas furnace — see furnace repair. If your air handler uses electric backup heat, electric heater repair covers elements and sequencers. Use the cost calculator for a planning range, and why a heater blows cold air explains defrost behavior in more detail.